On view

Art of the Ancient Americas

Pair of ear ornaments,

1350–1521

P’urépecha, Mexica, or Ñuù Savi
Late Postclassic Period
y1989-90 a-b
The ears and mouth were focal places for body ornament throughout Mesoamerica because they were believed to be the areas where the breath-soul emanated from the body and could be qualified as precious and pleasant. The Mexica emperors known as Hue Tlatoani, “Great Speakers,” were first and foremost orators, and their speech was inflected by their fine lip plugs. According to sixteenth-century accounts, the Mexica restricted who could wear ornaments of certain materials. Gold was limited to the nobility, while obsidian ornaments could be worn by commoners. The combination of gold and obsidian in the same objects, as seen in this case, seems at odds with these sumptuary restrictions. Perhaps they were made and worn by P’urépecha people, who did not abide by the same regulations as the Mexica. Excavations at their capital of Tzintzuntzan, Michoacán, reveal that they embellished fine, thin obsidian ornaments with exotic materials such as turquoise.

More Context

These amazing ornaments were fashioned by producing a pair of obsidian spools and then fitting them with polished quartz crystal cores drilled to hold two small jade rods with golden pins. Ear piercing and adornment is one of the oldest forms of human body modification and the reasons for its practice are as diverse as the cultures that practiced it, from simple personal expression to the need to display accomplishments gained through rights of passage, merit, or royal distinction. Objects of precious stone and metal like this stunning example were reserved exclusively for the paramount elite in most Mesoamerican societies. Royal children had their ears pierced in infancy and a peg was inserted to begin the process of expanding the ear lobe. As individuals proceeded through life, ear “spools” of greater size and quality were inserted. The preference for the unusual “spool” shape was that it allowed the wearer to open the lobe and slip it around the narrower middle to secure it in place. The owner of this pair must have been very rich lord or lady to be able to afford jewels made of quartz not to mention obsidian, jade, and gold of this quality. While rock crystal is common, it is hard to find pieces of suitable size and clarity. Cutting and shaping can be incredibly difficult and it must have taken the craftsperson that made these many weeks to produce.

Information

Title
Pair of ear ornaments
Dates

1350–1521

Medium
Obsidian, rock crystal, jade, and gold
Dimensions
h. 1.8, diam. 3.7 cm. (11/16 x 1 7/16 in.)
Credit Line
Museum purchase, gift of Herbert L. Lucas, Class of 1950
Object Number
y1989-90 a-b
Place Made

North America, Mexico, Puebla, Central Mexico

Culture

November 9, 1989, Paul Arany, New York, sold to the Princeton University Art Museum [1].

Notes:
[1] According to an Arany invoice in the curatorial file.