On view

Art of the Ancient Americas

Labret,

1350–1521

P’urépecha, Mexica, or Ñuù Savi
Late Postclassic Period
y1989-96
The ears and mouth were focal places for body ornament throughout Mesoamerica because they were believed to be the areas where the breath-soul emanated from the body and could be qualified as precious and pleasant. The Mexica emperors known as Hue Tlatoani, “Great Speakers,” were first and foremost orators, and their speech was inflected by their fine lip plugs. According to sixteenth-century accounts, the Mexica restricted who could wear ornaments of certain materials. Gold was limited to the nobility, while obsidian ornaments could be worn by commoners. The combination of gold and obsidian in the same objects, as seen in this case, seems at odds with these sumptuary restrictions. Perhaps they were made and worn by P’urépecha people, who did not abide by the same regulations as the Mexica. Excavations at their capital of Tzintzuntzan, Michoacán, reveal that they embellished fine, thin obsidian ornaments with exotic materials such as turquoise.

More Context

Labrets were objects formed of precious stone and metal that were inserted through a hole pierced in the flesh of the lower lip. The wide flange at the base was intended to secure the ornament between the lip and the bottom teeth while the end projected out from the face. Obsidian was favored among the Aztecs and Eastern Nahuas who controlled most of its volcanic sources. This particular example was enhanced by the application of an embossed gold foil disk set with three pieces of turquoise. Labrets, nose ornaments, and earrings of many kinds could convey sophisticated messages about social status and ethnicity in ancient Mexican society. Rituals dedicated to Quetzalcoatl, patron god of the Eastern Nahuas, for example, required aspiring nobles to journey to Cholula to meet with two high priests called the Tlachiach and the Aquiach. After several days of prayer and penitence, the ears, nose, and lips of the initiate were pierced with sharpened eagle and jaguar bones, and ornaments were inserted according to the custom of the kingdom from which the petitioner came. In this way the noble was declared a tecuhtli or lineage head, and was thereby granted, through Quetzalcoatl’s divine authority, the rulership of a royal estate or teccalli.

Information

Title
Labret
Dates

1350–1521

Medium
Obsidian, gold, and turquoise
Dimensions
2.5 × 5 × 2.8 cm (1 × 1 15/16 × 1 1/8 in.)
Credit Line
Museum purchase, gift of Herbert L. Lucas, Class of 1950
Object Number
y1989-96
Place Made

North America, Mexico, Central Mexico

Culture
Materials

November 9, 1989, Paul Arany, New York, sold to the Princeton University Art Museum [1].

Notes:
[1] According to an Arany invoice in the curatorial file.