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Man's wrapper (kente),

20th century

Akan artist
1998-698
Asante Kente cloths are composed by stitching together strips of woven fabric that alternate warp- and weft-faced weave, resulting in a checkered effect. Once a royal textile whose use was carefully restricted, kente is now the national cloth of Ghana and an international symbol of pan-Africanism. Kente is draped around the body without fasteners, requiring constant readjustment or “dancing” of the cloth, allowing its patterns to be seen in constant movement. Both whole cloths and smaller patterns are named for proverbs, objects, and people. Exhibiting the skill of the weaver, named weft-faced patterns are concentrated at the cloth’s ends. This large, 24-strip men’s wrapper includes nnwötoa (“snail’s bottom”) in red and yellow.

More Context

This technically complex textile is made from three-inch-wide strips of cloth woven on a horizontal frame treadle loom and sewn together. Usually known as kente cloths, they were woven to order by male weavers. The term "kente" appears to be a corruption of the Fanti word <em>kenten</em>, meaning basket, because the weaving resembles woven basketry. Individual motifs and designs have specific names and meanings, and certain patterns were reserved for the paramount chief. The gold color denotes warmth, long life, and prosperity. Older cloths were frequently woven from silk thread unraveled from imported cloth, but as the cost of silk increased, more recent cloths such as this example were woven from cotton and rayon. Among the Akan peoples, a kente cloth was an indication of prestige. As the power of the chiefs diminished, however, the wearing of kente grew more common, and kente is now worn by people who previously would not have had sufficient rank or wealth.

Information

Title
Man's wrapper (kente)
Dates

20th century

Maker
Akan artist
Medium
Cotton, rayon, and dye
Dimensions
320.3 cm x 204.6 cm (126 1/8 x 80 9/16 in.)
Credit Line
Bequest of John B. Elliott, Class of 1951
Object Number
1998-698
Place Made

Africa, Ghana

Culture
Type
Materials

John B. Elliott, New York, NY; Princeton University Art Museum, 1998